Tag: Herbs

#12. The difference between essential oils and extracts

Original article published on LinkedIn, also on his website, 23 June 2021, by: Nuqo Trading

“With the increased awareness of natural products, more people are asking questions about the difference between essential oils and extracts. Both play an important role in natural wellness products used in everything from aromatherapy to teas, and the right process is essential to get the most out of these natural substances.

The main difference between essential oils and extracts is the process. While both are extracted from different parts of the plant, the process is very different. Essential oils must be extracted through distillation, while extracts are steeped in a liquid to isolate the flavor.

Oils collected from the aromatic parts of flowers, roots, and leaves are known as essential oils. These oils are concentrated in nature and prepared by steam distillation. The plant parts are placed inside a steam chamber, steam is released over the plant parts, and the oils are collected by squeezing under steam pressure. The extracted substances are collected in the vapor chamber and cooled in a condenser. The condenser creates water and separates the oil into a concentrated form.

With extracts, the plants go through a steeping process, where the collected substance is concentrated. This can also be done by pulverizing the plant. The most common extraction process is herbal tea, while tinctures require the plant material to be steeped in alcohol for a long time to remove the essential compounds.

Each method removes the most important compounds from plants and concentrates the best of nature into a simple, easy-to-use substance.”

My question to Nuqo Trading:

In my handmade soap production1, I use olive oil, which has been infused with 720 grams of herbs such as rosemary, oregano, sage, lavender, in 15 liters of olive oil. The infusion time is half a year. Then the soaked herbs are filtered out, and powdered in the food processor, filtered again and returned to the added oil, so that everything that is possible to extract from the soaked herbs is retained and used in the soap production. The infused olive oil looks black when the grinding and back-filtration are done. The smell is extraordinary. Next to that, I use a tea from the same herbal extract (for many days), which is also very dark. I use this tea to create a lye with sodium hydroxide. Later, when the liquid starts to saponify, I add the necessary amount of essential oil of the same herb for that batch.

My question is: is the result of infusion, and the way I make the oil, also a kind of extract?

Answer on LinkedIn, by Nuqo Trading:

Most likely! Your soaps sound amazing!

In the video you can follow the creation of (in this case) lavender soap, from lavender fields to infusion, to cutting and packaging:

Footnote

  1. Cretan-Garden webshop ↩︎

#10. The colour of lavender soap

The first time I saw and smelled a real lavender 1 plant was in the year 1986. The plant was growing against the outside wall of the gîte rural 2, where I stayed for some weeks together with my family. It was the only plant there. The gîte was located in the surroundings of the (then) small village with the name La Roche-de-Glun 3 in the department Drôme 4 in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes 5 region of southeastern France.

The small shrub where I found the name of later, was bathing the entire day in the heat of the sun, and despite that it never looked as if it was in a need for water. Used to the wealthy-leaved shrubs in Dutch gardens, I was touched by the heat-resistant leaves of this one, and their colour: greyish green. The unique, fresh, strong, uplifting, relaxing, wonderful, charming smell has since then become my favourite one. The colour of the lavender flowers is light purple, violet 6.

Photo by Anastasia Shuraeva from Pexels
Photo by Anastasia Shuraeva from Pexels

Since I am working with herbs from Crete, I searched for Cretan lavender, and found on the website “Wild Herbs of Crete” 7, a blogpost about it 8. According to this blogpost there are two different kinds of lavender: the Lavandula Stoechas, which seems to smell sweeter, and the Lavandula Vera. I assume that Lavandula Vera [“vera”, which is Italian for “true”] is the same as Lavandula Angustifolia 9, also known as Lavandula Officinalis. For my Cretan-Garden.shop I use Greek lavender, the Greek Lavandula Angustifolia.

The colour of natural lavender soap

When one googles on images with “lavender soap”, one is overwhelmed with the colour violet, or purple, not only because of the purple wrappers or boxes, but also because the soaps are purple or violet. When I started to make lavender soap, by infusing 15 litres of organic olive oil with 720 grams of dried lavender flowers, I was curious how the colour of the olive oil would become after three months of infusing, pulverising the filtered-infused lavender and adding the result back into the infused oil. The colour is black. Not purple. The liquid soap is as all herbal soaps this colour, and dried it has a beige / khaki colour. Not purple.

When the infused oil becomes soap during the saponification process the almost black colour turns into orange/brown, sometimes, that depends on the herb, it is red/brown. The colour of the lavender soap becomes even lighter than the colour of the other herbal soaps. The smell however is not lesser strong. On the contrary. Important to know is that the skin-nourishing ingredients of extra virgin olive oil, organic herbs, and essential oils are not affected in the saponification process.

Whenever you would like to have a violet coloured bar of lavender soap, and you find one, be aware that the colour is not natural, but synthetic. Often even perfumes, which contain synthetic fragrances, or pure synthetic fragrances have been added  to mislead you even more.

Handcrafted lavender soap smells the same as the lavender plant. How does lavender smell? The scent of the lavender plant is strong, charismatic, and intensely botanical. Underlying its floral sweetness are green and spicy notes, and a woody accent 10. When a herbal soap comes in a contact with water the smells of the ingredients become more active. After washing, showering or bathing the smell slowly disappears: natural smells evaporate quickly when they are exposed to the air. Only when you would use your own body-oil, in this case your own lavender body-oil 11— the smell of the lavender essential oil will accompany you for a longer time, in a modest way, and will not —like a strong “cloud” of perfumes and fragrances that fill the air— disturb others: not everybody likes the same smells. Be aware of what kind of smell you “wear” when you are going to spend time in nature. Perfumes and fragrances do not fit there.

The toxic truth about perfumes and fragrances

“The toxic truth about perfumes and fragrances” is the title of a blog post, written by Karen Kingston. Since I agree with every word and sentence, I would like to recommend this blog post. You can click here to read the post.

Footnotes

  1. Lavender – Britannica dictionary ↩︎
  2. Gîte rural – Wikipedia ↩︎
  3. La Roche-de-Glun – Wikipedia ↩︎
  4. Drôme – Wikipedia ↩︎
  5. Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes – Wikipedia ↩︎
  6. Violet (colour) – Wikipedia ↩︎
  7. Wild Herbs of Crete – Website ↩︎
  8. Greek Lavender – Website Wild Herbs of Crete ↩︎
  9. Lavandula Angustifolia – Wikipedia ↩︎
  10. Lavender – Cretan Garden, Page Lavender ↩︎
  11. Body oil – Cretan Garden recipe for a home made skin conditioner ↩︎

#7. Rosemary-infused body oil

The benefits of the herb rosemary, or rosmarinus officinalis 1 2 3, were already hailed in the Minoan Civilisation 4. Rosemary is a kitchen herb, but a medicinal herb as well. Medicinal herbs 5 6 7 8 are available as tinctures, tablets, pills, teas and essential oils. These are for internal use and oral use. Essential oils, however, are also used externally. The term medicinal is an indication that nobody should use these without consulting a well-trained professional therapist, or a medical doctor who also studied these herbs and/or their oils, how to use these, when, for which health problems, and what the dosage should be.

Rosemary is known for its benefits for the skin. It is present in almost all skin products, like shampoos, creams, massage oils, and body oils. Four out of seven Cretan Garden soaps are made out of rosemary-infused olive oil 9, oregano-infused oil 10 and sage-infused oil 11.

Your home-made body oil and body scrub

Body oils are expensive. You can make your own body oil. Your skin will love it, and your wallet as well. Follow the next steps and enjoy the result.

  1. 500 ml organic extra virgin olive oil
  2. 30 grams dried organic rosemary leaves
  3. Put the dried rosemary in a casserole that is big enough for the half-litre olive oil plus the 30 gram rosemary leaves. Warm the oil up to 38–60 degrees Celsius and keep the casserole at this temperature for about 48–72 hours. During this time, all the goods are extracted from the leaves into the oil. This process is called infusing. Another method: add the olive oil and herbs to a bowl, or casserole and keep it for some weeks in a warm sunlit spot in the house. Stir the oil-rosemary mix during the infusing time every day. I infuse olive oil as well, for making soap, but I offer the oil more time to infuse. At least three months. 
  4. When the oil is infused, you can filter the herbs out, by using a sieve. If you want to make rosemary pulp, you can add the oily herbs to the kitchen machine and pulverise them. 
  5. Take an empty bowl or casserole, and put a cheesecloth in the sieve. 
  6. Put the rosemary-olive-oil pulp from the kitchen machine cup into the cheesecloth, and let it leak out for a while, till all the oil has disappeared. 
  7. Make this process more efficient by pouring the filtered oil for the second time over the pulp. At the end, you can take the rest of the oil from the pulp when you take the four points of the cheesecloth together and press the oil out. Your hands will become very oily, but you can remove this with kitchenpaper.
  8. Fill an empty, well-cleaned and dried fluid soap dispenser and add about 20 drops of rosemary essential oil, or an essential oil of your own choice.
  9. The rest of the infused oil can be stored in a cold place, for instance in the refrigerator. Put a lid on it.
  10. The left-overs of the rosemary pulp in the sieve can be used as a body scrub. You can store it, for instance, in an empty, clean, glass jar in the refrigerator. Before using a body scrub to exfoliate your skin, read my blog post: Exfoliating the skin 12.

How to use the body oil

The best moment to use body oil is after a shower or bath, before drying your body with a towel. Pump some body oil from the dispenser into the palm of one of your hands and divide the oil over both hands. Apply the oil on the entire body. Massage the oil onto the warm and wet skin. In this way, you do not need so much oil, the oil is easier to spread, and because the skin is warm, the oil is easily absorbed. Then pat the skin dry. You will discover that the skin is not oily, and after drying the skin shines and looks younger and healthier. In case your skin is really dry, it will take some weeks before your skin is back to normal again. You can use body oil every day.

Instead, you could massage the entire body from head and hair to toes according to the Indian abhyanga massage before taking a shower. Read more about this massage in my blog post “The skin” 13. The used oil is also an herbal-infused body oil.

Other uses: after a day at the beach, in the sunlight, in the hot dry wind, the salty seawater, or in winter when being outside in the cold, or 24/7 in a warm dry room. You can use the rosemary body oil also as a hair mask.

Attention: the rosemary aroma is uplifting, stimulating, energising, and therefore best not to be used before sleeping. If you would like to create a body oil for a good night’s rest, use lavender instead of rosemary.

Benefits of rosemary-infused body oil

  1. Anti-ageing
  2. Improves elasticity
  3. Moisturises
  4. Protects the skin
  5. Can be used in cases of eczema and acne 
  6. The aroma of rosemary uplifts the psyche.
  7. The aroma creates a beneficial effect on the central nervous system.
  8. The aroma stimulates the 3rd chakra, balances the 5th chakra 14
  9. Photo: Karolina Grabowska from Pexels

Additional information

  1. Rosemary soap – Cretan Garden
  2. Lavender-Rosemary soap – Cretan Garden
  3. Patchouli-Rosemary soap – Cretan Garden
  4. YlangYlang-Rosemary soap – Cretan Garden
  5. Lavender soap – Cretan Garden
  6. Oregano soap – Cretan Garden
  7. Sage soap – Cretan Garden
  8. Exfoliating the skin – Cretan Garden
  9. Rosemary harvest in Morocco – Medicine Hunter
  10. How to Make Herb-Infused Oils for Culinary & Body Care Use – Mountain Rose Herbs
  11. Effect of Olive Oil on the Skin – ResearchGate
  12. Virgin olive oil as a fundamental nutritional component and skin protector – ReasearchGate
  13. Olive Oil in Botanical Cosmeceuticals – ResearchGate
  14. Enhancement of antioxidant and skin moisturizing effects of olive oil by incorporation into microemulsions – ResearchGate
  15. The foundation for the use of olive oil in skin care and botanical cosmeceuticals – ResearchGate

Footnotes

  1. Rosmarinus officinalis L. (rosemary) as therapeutic and prophylactic agent – Journal of Biomedical Science ↩︎
  2. Gallery Rosmarinus officinalis – Flickr ↩︎
  3. Rosemary essential oil – New directions Aromatics ↩︎
  4. Herbs for Health and Beauty in Minoan Crete of 2000 BC – Explore Crete ↩︎
  5. Historical review of medicinal plants’ usage – PubMed ↩︎
  6. Herbs – Multerland ↩︎
  7. Herbal medicine – Multerland ↩︎
  8. Chinese Traditional Medicine – Multerland ↩︎
  9. Lavender soap – Cretan Garden ↩︎
  10. Oregano soap – Cretan Garden ↩︎
  11. Sage soap – Cretan Garden ↩︎
  12. Exfoliating the skin – Cretan Garden ↩︎
  13. The skin / Abhyanga massage – Cretan Garden ↩︎
  14. A Beginner’s Guide to the 7 Chakras and Their Meanings – Healthline ↩︎

#1. The Skin

The skin is an extremely sensitive organ that is kept healthy due to a constantly regenerating, ingenious circulatory system of water, lymph, blood and fat. Due to the complexity of the skin, to understand how the skin is built up and how this organ works, it is useful to watch one or more educational videos about it. I have compiled these in a video list.

Photo by cottonbro 

How to maintain healthy skin?

Since the skin is nourished in the skin itself via the body’s systems and not on the surface, it is important to eat healthy food and drink enough water (1-2 litres per day) in addition to other liquids such as coffee, tea, soup, juice, etc. Coffee and black tea dehydrate the body. Breathing fresh air, while being physically active, contributes to optimal digestion and thus also to healthy skin. Daylight is also part of natural skin care. Daylight creates a natural vitamin D that is absorbed and transported by the skin into the body. Maintaining the skin from the outside is part of daily hygiene to keep bad odours, bacteria, viruses and fungi away, to avoid diseases. Skin-friendly body oils moisturise the skin, and, together with exfoliation and massage, they are a way to keep it vital, elastic and shiny.

1. Soap

It is astonishing that soap manufacturers of, for example, the very popular Aleppo soap Savon de Marseille and Castile soap do not provide information about the pH value. The pH value of all natural soaps is 9. Cretan Garden soaps are natural soaps, comparable to Aleppo soaps, and also have a pH value of 9. This pH level is related to the formula of handmade natural soaps according to ancient traditions. There are manufacturers of the so-called neutral soaps, or so-called ecologically degradable soaps, who also do not provide any information about them. There are natural soap manufacturers who add natural acidic substances from, for example, aloe vera to lower the pH level. For me, it has been a conscious choice to follow the old traditional methods and formulas. Although the Cretan-Garden olive soap is alkaline, the skin only needs 15 minutes to return to its own pH. The benefits of olive oil, herbs and essential oils in the soap are still present in the thin film that remains on the skin, nourishing, protecting and keeping the skin elastic.

*Advice. If the soap is used for scalp and hair washing: use rosemary soap, and argan oil after washing, on towel-dried hair if you have dry and/or curly hair. Grey hair can also be very dry. Argan oil is also used in the so-called Moroccan oil, but argan oil is pure oil and does not contain perfume or other chemicals. To make argan oil more yours, you can mix a drop of essential oil with argan oil in the palm of your hand before spreading it over your hair, and rub it into the hair and scalp for about a minute.

*Advice for using soap on the skin on the face: Do not use soap too often. Use lukewarm water and dry the facial skin.

2. A skin friendly body oil

Cretan-Garden: Recipes for a skin conditioner

Note: the recommended amount of drops of essential oil per 200 ml of olive oil for a body oil is a safe total. On the Aroma Therapy Foundation website it is written that the total depends on the power of each individual essential oil: they are all different in weight, which means that a drop of lavender is lighter than a drop of oregano, for example. They recommend 20 – 40 drops per 100 ml of olive oil. I recommend a maximum of 20 drops per 200 ml of olive oil, for use on the body and face. Your skin may react to it anyway. Advice: test your homemade body oil on a small spot on your arm, and wait to see how your skin reacts before using it on your entire body. 

Do not use body oil as a sun oil. You can use it as an after-sun treatment. Protect your skin from the sun with a cream with a high protection factor. However, the best protection is to avoid direct sunlight, by wearing a sun hat or sitting in the shade.

3. Exfoliation of the skin

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the outer layer of your skin. If done well, in a way that suits your skin type, it creates a bright, healthy complexion because the circulation in the skin has improved. The correct way to exfoliate allows for better absorption of body oils and creams. See also the Cretan-Garden blog post: Exfoliating the Skin.

*Tip: the skin on your face should not be exfoliated in the same way as the skin on your body. Because the skin on your face is constantly exposed, dealing with temperature variations, air pollution, an overdose of aggressive sunlight, dry indoor air in the winter, air conditioning in the summer and winter, the skin on your face needs gentle care. No form of exfoliation is gentle, unless you use a washcloth carefully.

4. Therapeutical massage

Since Wikipedia offers a very excellent article on massage, types of massage, massage in history and massage therapies, I will just add a few notes.

Massage stimulates muscles, blood circulation, organs, metabolism in the cells, balances the body systems, removes blockages of chakras, creates a bridge between your mind and body, and also activates the skin, because the skin is the medium between the hands of the therapist and the body under the skin. To get used to a therapeutic massage, one can start with a foot massage. Videos: playlist 1, playlist 2

A professional and therapeutic Thai massage is a possible next step: you wear comfortable clothes. Videos: playlist.

The professional and therapeutic Abhyanga (“oil massage”) is a form of Ayurvedic therapy that involves massaging the whole body from head to toe with Dosha-specific warm herbal oil. Self-massage is also possible. Abhyanga massage improves skin health. Healthline published an article about it. Video: Abhyanga self-massage. Video: Abhyanga massage India

5. Fresh air

The skin is our natural boundary between our inner physical body, our inner world, our Self and the outside world. Human development, linked to so-called civilisation, led to changes in habits, and in clothing. Our ancestors did not wear clothes, they used the skin and fur of the animals they killed for food, to protect against the cold. They did not live in closed houses, but in caves, huts or tents. Fresh air was a constant factor. The air was not polluted at that time. The skin could bathe day and night in clean air. Fresh air and oxygen are necessary to keep the skin in good condition. Opening windows, at least an hour or two per day, is a must to keep air hygiene optimal. 

Going for a daily walk, also in winter, in an environmentally friendly area, creates healthy blood circulation. The blood is enriched by breathing in pure oxygen. The blood system also transports oxygen to the skin.

6. Daylight

We are the descendants of humans who lived in the open air, with an abundance of daylight. We must realise that our skin did not change as much during evolution as our habits in clothing and life. We live almost constantly in a closed house, office, workplace, car or any form of public transport, with artificial light. Natural light, daylight, is essential for our well-being, and for maintaining healthy skin. Note: daylight is created by the sun, but being in the full heat of a scorching sun is not healthy. The shade also provides natural daylight.

7. Water and healthy food

What you eat and drink can significantly affect your skin’s health. Drink at least a litre of water per day, in addition to any other liquids like coffee, tea, juice, or soup. Healthline has excellent information on good foods for healthy skin.

Photo by Arnie Watkins

Related information

More:

  • Cretan Garden: Scientific research on olive oil, the use of olive oil on the skin, essential oils, cold-processed olive soap and herbs.
  • Medical News Today: Benefits of olive oil for skin and face.
  • Mayo Clinic – a non-profit American academic medical center focused on integrated healthcare, education, and research – Does drinking water give hydrated skin?
  • Healthfully: The effects of sunlight[daylight, admin] and fresh air on the body
  • Healthfully: Vitamin D & Extreme Sweating

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