Tag: skin

#12. The difference between essential oils and extracts

Original article published on LinkedIn, also on his website, 23 June 2021, by: Nuqo Trading

“With the increased awareness of natural products, more people are asking questions about the difference between essential oils and extracts. Both play an important role in natural wellness products used in everything from aromatherapy to teas, and the right process is essential to get the most out of these natural substances.

The main difference between essential oils and extracts is the process. While both are extracted from different parts of the plant, the process is very different. Essential oils must be extracted through distillation, while extracts are steeped in a liquid to isolate the flavor.

Oils collected from the aromatic parts of flowers, roots, and leaves are known as essential oils. These oils are concentrated in nature and prepared by steam distillation. The plant parts are placed inside a steam chamber, steam is released over the plant parts, and the oils are collected by squeezing under steam pressure. The extracted substances are collected in the vapor chamber and cooled in a condenser. The condenser creates water and separates the oil into a concentrated form.

With extracts, the plants go through a steeping process, where the collected substance is concentrated. This can also be done by pulverizing the plant. The most common extraction process is herbal tea, while tinctures require the plant material to be steeped in alcohol for a long time to remove the essential compounds.

Each method removes the most important compounds from plants and concentrates the best of nature into a simple, easy-to-use substance.”

My question to Nuqo Trading:

In my handmade soap production1, I use olive oil, which has been infused with 720 grams of herbs such as rosemary, oregano, sage, lavender, in 15 liters of olive oil. The infusion time is half a year. Then the soaked herbs are filtered out, and powdered in the food processor, filtered again and returned to the added oil, so that everything that is possible to extract from the soaked herbs is retained and used in the soap production. The infused olive oil looks black when the grinding and back-filtration are done. The smell is extraordinary. Next to that, I use a tea from the same herbal extract (for many days), which is also very dark. I use this tea to create a lye with sodium hydroxide. Later, when the liquid starts to saponify, I add the necessary amount of essential oil of the same herb for that batch.

My question is: is the result of infusion, and the way I make the oil, also a kind of extract?

Answer on LinkedIn, by Nuqo Trading:

Most likely! Your soaps sound amazing!

In the video you can follow the creation of (in this case) lavender soap, from lavender fields to infusion, to cutting and packaging:

Footnote

  1. Cretan-Garden webshop ↩︎

#8. Shampoo

Shampoos are, they say, liquid soap. Did you know that 99.5% of liquid soaps are not real soaps?

“99,5% are cocktails of synthetic detergents that have many undesirable long-term effects on the body. This is denied worldwide due to the billion-dollar revenues of large multinational corporations. Sodium Lauryl (Laureth) Sulfate (SLS) is currently Western Civilization’s leading foaming agent. SLS is found in shampoos, bath gels, car washes, dishwashing detergents, soap bars, laundry detergents, etc. It is a wetting and dispersing agent, emulsifier, degreaser and foam booster. It also increases the permeability of the skin by about 100 times and is used in lotions to increase the absorption of micronutrients into the skin. And there is a big danger there!!” Source

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels

Shampoos, all sorts of shampoos and all sorts of brands are claiming to be the best for your hair, offering for every hair type another shampoo, another conditioner, another hair mask. I have used pH-neutral shampoos, hair conditioners, and hair masks, for as long as they became available, but my hair was, despite the neutral pH of the shampoos, and the beautiful natural conditioners and masks, never really okay. My hair is thick, curly, dry, fluffy, and my hair is becoming dryer because of becoming grey as well. I have tried everything. Because of the mentioned characteristics of my hair, it is impossible to have it long. Not even half long.

Herbal olive oil soap as a shampoo bar

I have started lately to use my own herbal olive soap for hair washing, to see what happens. It looks better and better. . The most significant difference is that I do not need to wash my hair more than once per week. My hair looks and feels normal, it is so much easier to be dressed. I was wondering why. 

Though pH-neutral shampoos can be used every day, the question is if washing your hair every day is really okay for hair and scalp. My thoughts go far back in time when hair was washed just once per week. That had a reason: the skin on the scalp is not the same skin as on the rest of your body. Every single piece of hair grows out of the scalp-skin, and it is the skin that keeps the hair in good condition. We indeed need hair conditioners and hair masks when we wash our hair daily. But if we offer the skin of the scalp the time to do their work in their own natural way, and if we do not immediately destroy their work, by daily taking away what the skin itself produces, namely sebum, we do not need hair conditioners as we do now. Daily washing the hair is maybe okay according to shampoo manufacturers, but it is a matter of logic that the natural resistance of the skin and the hair will decrease because of exhaustion, or will become overactive at the very beginning, when the daily shampoo attacks start, even when the shampoo is pH neutral. Using a neutral shampoo once per week was for me not the solution. Reason to use it more. And that did not work either.

A natural conditioner: olive oil or cocos oil

My own experiences with my oily cold process herbal olive soaps are that washing my hair with it once per week is really enough. After making my hair well dry, I use some drops of pure olive oil or cocos oil, or a mix of both, and spread it over and through the towel-dry hair and massage it into the scalp and hair. I let my hair dry naturally. My fluffy, dry hair is gone, but I expect that the condition of my hair will improve more. [Update July 20, 2025: my hair is curling again, shining, and looking healthy.] 

To make it more personal, I added about 20 drops of essential oil to a small re-used 50 ml bottle with pump, filled with olive oil, and stirred it very well.

Additional information

  1. What ages hair? – PubMed
  2. Hairloss due to electromagnetic radiation from overuse of cellphone – ResearchGate

My personal experiences with EMF and hair loss: during the time that I was not aware of the impact of EMF on my health, not informed about symptoms of overradiation, I was indeed losing so much hair that I was wondering what was going on. I have written about this on my blog Multerland, in several posts[Archives 2017-2018]. It was the start of a private study on EMF. The consultation of an osteopath was helpful in stopping my bad physical condition: she worked on my scalp and neck, and it felt as if a layer of glass had broken and my scalp was back to normal again. After several treatments, my hair was growing again. The new hair looked like baby hair, but after some months it was back to normal. The only way to get rid of the effects if wireless radiation is to live in an EMF-free environment. I bought the Acousticom2. This calibrated device is able to measure EMF. In this way, I could find the rooms where the radiation is almost zero, or at least the less, where to put the bed, where the desk with computer. Of course, all the wireless is turned off, the smart meter is turned off, the Wi-Fi is turned off, also in the computer and printer. All is Ethernet cabled. I do not have the internet on my cellphone and mostly the cellphone is on Flymodus.

#5. Exfoliation of the skin

What is exfoliation?

Your skin naturally sheds dead skin cells to make way for new cells. Exfoliation is the removal of dead skin cells from the surface of your skin using, for example:

Exfoliation can improve the appearance of your skin, but if not done correctly, it can do more harm than good. It is best to choose safe materials.

  • Washcloth
  • Loofah
  • Dry brush

I find dry brushing – a bath brush that has the right strength for the skin – to be a very excellent daily aid in really improving the condition of my own older skin. In the figure below, you can see the difference between younger and older skin. One of the differences is the blood vessels: in older skin, they are darker red, which means there is less oxygen. When you brush your skin, blood circulation in the skin improves. 

Adapted from Characteristics of the Aging Skin – PMC (nih.gov) with permission from Dr. Miranda A. Farage

More :

  1. Blog Cretan-Garden: #10. Loofah and skincare
  2. What Does It Mean to Exfoliate? Why You Should and How to Start – Healthline
  3. Dr. Berkowsky’s Vital Chi Skin Brushing System™ – Natural Health Science
  4. Skin care in the aging female: myths and truths – PubMed
  5. The truth about dry brushing and what it does for you – Cleveland Clinic

#4. Skin and pH

When writing this post it is July 2021. We, humans all over the world, have an experience with skin and pH(power of Hydrogen) values, while knowing maybe not anything about pH and if not being aware of the fact, why the skin of the dorsal of their hands looks so incredible bad since the last year. Most probably this is caused by the antiseptic sprays (high percentage alcohol) at the entrance of all shops. Not one doctor, dermatologist, talks about it. However, when one uses a soap to wash hands it has to be skin neutral. They say.

pH scale / CC BY 4.0

Skin neutral?

The pH value of the skin is on all places of the body different. Therefore one uses an average pH value, which is about 5 or lesser. What exactly is causing the pH value of the skin? First one needs to know what exactly is “skin”. Skin is an organ which covers and protects all what is beneath the skin, and outside the skin. The skin is nourished by the food we eat. If we never eat a balanced food, concerning pH levels, acidic and alkaline, the skin will not be able to have a healthy pH level. The influence of too much acidic food, which is the most popular among humans in the “civilized” countries, influences of course the constitution of the skin, and its pH values.

Also influences from outside the skin, like air pollution, artificial electromagnetic radiation, burning sun rays, extreme temperature, contribute to the condition of the skin, and its pH. On health websites one claims that only soaps with a pH value that is similar with the skin pH are healthy for keeping a healthy skin. This would mean that swimming in the salty sea pH 8,2), or ocean (pH 8,2), even bathing in tap-water (pH value between 6,5 and 8,5) or taking a shower should be avoided.

The neutral pH level soaps are a mix of the normal alkalinity of soaps, and mostly several chemicals to achieve a lower pH level. These chemicals are more skin damaging than a normal soap ever can. With other words: a lot of industrial propaganda for their so-called neutral pH products should be suspected.

The term alkaline is a sort of curse in the ears of many, because of the industrial propaganda for their self created myths that a soap must have a neutral pH value. How can they explain the alkalinity of for instance breast milk(pH of 6,35-7,35)[1], the alkalinity of the skin of new-borns(pH value 7)[2], the alkalinity of the amniotic fluid(pH value 7,1-7,3)[3] in which the foetus swims before it is born? The foetus is extremely sensitive: imagine the damage that could be created in its development of organs, brains, eyes, blood vessels, nervous system, bones, skin…. Nature however found it better to let it swim in alkaline fluid, not in neutral fluid, neither in acidic fluid. The pH value of blood ranges between 7,35 and 7,45. It is the blood that nourishes the skin from inside, and the lymphatic fluid in the skin pours out the acidic waste to the surface of the skin. If the food habits of the human being are not healthy, unbalanced, too acidic, of course the blood will be more acidic and the skin as well. How high was the pH level of the skin of our ancestors? They washed with alkaline soap, without any problem. Skin problems occur because of an unhealthy life style, bad hygiene, the poisonous environment we live in, and the poisonous food people eat.

Healthy lymph have a pH that ranges between 7 and 10. The lymphatic system, part of the immune system, is a network of ducts that carry the lymphatic fluid (LF). LF also contains white blood cells called lymphocytes, fats, and proteins.[4]. The lymphatic system, made up of lymphatic fluid, tiny vessels, nodes and organs, is responsible for removing excess fluid, infections and acidic waste[5].

Viruses, and pH

There are several publications about viruses and how they react to low or high pH values. The most of the publications contradict each other. Some write: Viruses thrive, like bacteria, in an acidic environment. Viruses infect body cells by binding to the proteins in the cells and then multiplying. Scientific research shows that this process mainly takes place at a low pH value or in an acidic environment. An acidic environment has a pH of 0 to 7. As the pH becomes more basic, the activity of viruses decreases sharply. Scientists have established this in various studies in numerous viruses in both humans and animals. The relationship between pH value and infection-increasing activities has been demonstrated in, among others, influenza1, corona2, hepatitis C3, foot-and-mouth disease4 and other viruses in animals. By increasing the alkaline buffer in your body, which improves the pH value of your body cells, the sensitivity to viruses in the body could decrease[6][7] More: [8][9]

Since scientists are not unanimously concluding that alkalinity of food, or body care products, create a not virus-friendly environment it is necessary to wait for more research.

Sources

  1. pH value of breastmilk – ScienceDirect
  2. Skin pH of a newborn baby – PubMed
  3. Amniotic fluid has a pH of 7.1 to 7.3. – Healthline
  4. pH value of healthy lymphatic fluids – Portland Press
  5. About lymphatic fluid – PrairieNaturals
  6. Viruses are pH sensitive – Reelyse
  7. The influence of pH on SARS-CoV-2 infection and COVID-19 severity – ResearchGate
  8. Conditions Favoring Increased COVID-19 Morbidity and Mortality: Their Common Denominator and its Early Treatment – PubMed
  9. What do we know so far about COVID-19 and alkalinity? Health Desk
  10. Additional information about pH values – Scientific Research, §6
  11. The Skin – Cretan Garden Blog

#2. Effect of olive oil on skin

“Effect of olive oil on skin” is a chapter in the book: Olives and Olive Oil in Health and Disease Prevention, (pp.1125-1132). Parts of the abstract, published in ResearchGate in 2010, by Diana Badiu, Rafael Luque, and Rajkumar Rajendram:

The popularity of cosmetics derived from natural sources is increasing. Such products are ecologically “ethical” and are effective and safe to use.

Vitamin E is the main lipophilic antioxidant that inhibits peroxidation, especially if associated with “natural” moisturisers such as the lipids in olive oil and olive extract. Vegetable oils containing EFAs have proven to be of great use in the production of cosmetics as either active incipient or raw materials for the synthesis of novel compounds. EFAs are easily integrated into the skin’s hydro-lipid film and are nourishing, moisturising, and protective.

Some of these substances have been used for centuries yet can still meet the needs of today’s consumers. Apart from their moisturising and soothing effects, and anti-inflammatory and immune-modulatory function, these products reduce ageing of the skin with their antioxidant, stabilising action on the cellular membranes. Treatment with olive oil has no side effects. Olive oil does not burn or traumatise the skin.

License: Creative Commons

More scientific research:

  • Virgin olive oil as a fundamental nutritional component and skin protector – ReasearchGate
  • Olive Oil in Botanical Cosmeceuticals – ResearchGate
  • Enhancement of antioxidant and skin moisturizing effects of olive oil by incorporation into microemulsions – ResearchGate
  • The foundation for the use of olive oil in skin care and botanical cosmeceuticals – ResearchGate
  • More scientific research on the website Cretan Garden: go here

Article:

  • How to Use Olive Oil on Your Face – WikiHow

#1. The Skin

The skin is an extremely sensitive organ that is kept healthy due to a constantly regenerating, ingenious circulatory system of water, lymph, blood and fat. Due to the complexity of the skin, to understand how the skin is built up and how this organ works, it is useful to watch one or more educational videos about it. I have compiled these in a video list.

Photo by cottonbro 

How to maintain healthy skin?

Since the skin is nourished in the skin itself via the body’s systems and not on the surface, it is important to eat healthy food and drink enough water (1-2 litres per day) in addition to other liquids such as coffee, tea, soup, juice, etc. Coffee and black tea dehydrate the body. Breathing fresh air, while being physically active, contributes to optimal digestion and thus also to healthy skin. Daylight is also part of natural skin care. Daylight creates a natural vitamin D that is absorbed and transported by the skin into the body. Maintaining the skin from the outside is part of daily hygiene to keep bad odours, bacteria, viruses and fungi away, to avoid diseases. Skin-friendly body oils moisturise the skin, and, together with exfoliation and massage, they are a way to keep it vital, elastic and shiny.

1. Soap

It is astonishing that soap manufacturers of, for example, the very popular Aleppo soap Savon de Marseille and Castile soap do not provide information about the pH value. The pH value of all natural soaps is 9. Cretan Garden soaps are natural soaps, comparable to Aleppo soaps, and also have a pH value of 9. This pH level is related to the formula of handmade natural soaps according to ancient traditions. There are manufacturers of the so-called neutral soaps, or so-called ecologically degradable soaps, who also do not provide any information about them. There are natural soap manufacturers who add natural acidic substances from, for example, aloe vera to lower the pH level. For me, it has been a conscious choice to follow the old traditional methods and formulas. Although the Cretan-Garden olive soap is alkaline, the skin only needs 15 minutes to return to its own pH. The benefits of olive oil, herbs and essential oils in the soap are still present in the thin film that remains on the skin, nourishing, protecting and keeping the skin elastic.

*Advice. If the soap is used for scalp and hair washing: use rosemary soap, and argan oil after washing, on towel-dried hair if you have dry and/or curly hair. Grey hair can also be very dry. Argan oil is also used in the so-called Moroccan oil, but argan oil is pure oil and does not contain perfume or other chemicals. To make argan oil more yours, you can mix a drop of essential oil with argan oil in the palm of your hand before spreading it over your hair, and rub it into the hair and scalp for about a minute.

*Advice for using soap on the skin on the face: Do not use soap too often. Use lukewarm water and dry the facial skin.

2. A skin friendly body oil

Cretan-Garden: Recipes for a skin conditioner

Note: the recommended amount of drops of essential oil per 200 ml of olive oil for a body oil is a safe total. On the Aroma Therapy Foundation website it is written that the total depends on the power of each individual essential oil: they are all different in weight, which means that a drop of lavender is lighter than a drop of oregano, for example. They recommend 20 – 40 drops per 100 ml of olive oil. I recommend a maximum of 20 drops per 200 ml of olive oil, for use on the body and face. Your skin may react to it anyway. Advice: test your homemade body oil on a small spot on your arm, and wait to see how your skin reacts before using it on your entire body. 

Do not use body oil as a sun oil. You can use it as an after-sun treatment. Protect your skin from the sun with a cream with a high protection factor. However, the best protection is to avoid direct sunlight, by wearing a sun hat or sitting in the shade.

3. Exfoliation of the skin

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the outer layer of your skin. If done well, in a way that suits your skin type, it creates a bright, healthy complexion because the circulation in the skin has improved. The correct way to exfoliate allows for better absorption of body oils and creams. See also the Cretan-Garden blog post: Exfoliating the Skin.

*Tip: the skin on your face should not be exfoliated in the same way as the skin on your body. Because the skin on your face is constantly exposed, dealing with temperature variations, air pollution, an overdose of aggressive sunlight, dry indoor air in the winter, air conditioning in the summer and winter, the skin on your face needs gentle care. No form of exfoliation is gentle, unless you use a washcloth carefully.

4. Therapeutical massage

Since Wikipedia offers a very excellent article on massage, types of massage, massage in history and massage therapies, I will just add a few notes.

Massage stimulates muscles, blood circulation, organs, metabolism in the cells, balances the body systems, removes blockages of chakras, creates a bridge between your mind and body, and also activates the skin, because the skin is the medium between the hands of the therapist and the body under the skin. To get used to a therapeutic massage, one can start with a foot massage. Videos: playlist 1, playlist 2

A professional and therapeutic Thai massage is a possible next step: you wear comfortable clothes. Videos: playlist.

The professional and therapeutic Abhyanga (“oil massage”) is a form of Ayurvedic therapy that involves massaging the whole body from head to toe with Dosha-specific warm herbal oil. Self-massage is also possible. Abhyanga massage improves skin health. Healthline published an article about it. Video: Abhyanga self-massage. Video: Abhyanga massage India

5. Fresh air

The skin is our natural boundary between our inner physical body, our inner world, our Self and the outside world. Human development, linked to so-called civilisation, led to changes in habits, and in clothing. Our ancestors did not wear clothes, they used the skin and fur of the animals they killed for food, to protect against the cold. They did not live in closed houses, but in caves, huts or tents. Fresh air was a constant factor. The air was not polluted at that time. The skin could bathe day and night in clean air. Fresh air and oxygen are necessary to keep the skin in good condition. Opening windows, at least an hour or two per day, is a must to keep air hygiene optimal. 

Going for a daily walk, also in winter, in an environmentally friendly area, creates healthy blood circulation. The blood is enriched by breathing in pure oxygen. The blood system also transports oxygen to the skin.

6. Daylight

We are the descendants of humans who lived in the open air, with an abundance of daylight. We must realise that our skin did not change as much during evolution as our habits in clothing and life. We live almost constantly in a closed house, office, workplace, car or any form of public transport, with artificial light. Natural light, daylight, is essential for our well-being, and for maintaining healthy skin. Note: daylight is created by the sun, but being in the full heat of a scorching sun is not healthy. The shade also provides natural daylight.

7. Water and healthy food

What you eat and drink can significantly affect your skin’s health. Drink at least a litre of water per day, in addition to any other liquids like coffee, tea, juice, or soup. Healthline has excellent information on good foods for healthy skin.

Photo by Arnie Watkins

Related information

More:

  • Cretan Garden: Scientific research on olive oil, the use of olive oil on the skin, essential oils, cold-processed olive soap and herbs.
  • Medical News Today: Benefits of olive oil for skin and face.
  • Mayo Clinic – a non-profit American academic medical center focused on integrated healthcare, education, and research – Does drinking water give hydrated skin?
  • Healthfully: The effects of sunlight[daylight, admin] and fresh air on the body
  • Healthfully: Vitamin D & Extreme Sweating

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